What’s In My Mouth

Ever since I read about this restaurant in the NYT Magazine last September, I’ve been looking forward to experiencing Magnus & Magnus.  After all, Gothenburg has found herself in the enviable position of becoming the gastrohub of Scandinavia, center of the 21st century culinary revolution.  Magnus and Magnus shares the spotlight with no less than four Michelin-starred restaurants in the same city, two of which I had the great priviledge of experiencing during my last visit (Sjomagasinet and Fond: both, exquisite).  So it was with much anticipation I entered the small and charming santuary that has been so favorably received by the international press.

The casually elegant interior, I must say, is without parallel in this town: a cozy, square bar sits in the center of the room, with small tables encircling this nerve center of embibement.  A most intimate and charming single-table loft sitting directly above the entrance was noted immediately by everyone in our party as the private dining alcove of choice, not unlike your childhood tree or clubhouse.  There is a Moroccan theme about the place, save the Elvis-Sings-Christmas playing overhead.  Nonetheless, we tucked into our table for four and waited for the evening to unfold.

How do I explain what happened next:  the fact that our time at Magnus and Magnus was perhaps one of the most special and enjoyable dinners I have experienced abroad was not due to an easily identifiable element of the dinner.   The elegant and delightful server who took our joking in easy stride, the lovely Russian River Marimar Chardonnay she brought to our table after confessing she had recommended and served the last bottle of Chateau Nuf du Pap to the chaps in the coveted alcove, the mini salt-encrusted sourdough rolls that made me want to eat at least a dozen, the beef carpaccio with beets and broth, and the raindeer steaks enjoyed all around the table:  these are the elements that built our experinece, but truly I must confess that none of the above made me feel that Magnus and Magnus was tremendously special.  In fact, while perfectly delicious, the courses were, in all honesty, rather forgettable.  The invaluable element of our dinner was in the conversation that was collectively inspired by all of the above.  And therefore, tonight I go to bed pondering the fifth element, so to speak, that dining out has the potential to offer:  a heightened platform for friendship, for storytelling, for sharing.  And in this regard alone, Magnus and Magnus may have been one of the best restaurants I’ve ever experienced.

Magnus & Magnus
411 18 Goteborg

http://magnusmagnus.com