What's In My Mouth

It's been too long since I've felt adequately inspirated to write about food... Last month while in Australia, I was hoping the crocodile kabob and kangaroo proscuitto would move me to verse, but it didn't happen.  No worries, however, I've found my muse: Perry St.

Thank God they're open for lunch, as a dinner reservation requires sheer magic, or a snowstorm, probably both.  To be honest, the restaurant felt designed for mid-day light.  Floor to ceiling windows encircle three sides of the restaurant, the West Side Highway view softened with scrim-like curtains.  Low, white leather upholstery and scallop-shaped settees provide a clean, visual repetition; think Calvin Klein does Danish Modern.  The decor's tour-de-force, however, are the outrageously oversized architectural lamps that arch out from their wall mounts to illuminate the tables. 

All this visual beauty and harmony tends to build expectations.  The flavors exceeded them.  The Perry St lunch menu consists of two small-plate selections, and dessert.  After a heavenly delicate pea soup amuse-bouche (more like pea consomme), I devoured the house-made mozzarella citrus salad with thai basil and tangerines.  My mouth is still talking about it.  Second course was Japanese Snapper Sashimi with lemon, olive oil, and crispy skins curled up like fiddlehead ferns.  This meal was the transcendent experience you long for when coming to New York.  And I'm delighted to see Jean Georges' last blog post was January 28.  I'm not the only slacker!   www.jeangeorges.blogspot.com

176 Perry St
212.352.1900
http://www.jean-georges.com/