What's In My Mouth

I know, I know... How many blog-worthy places can there be in the 2nd largest city in Sweden?  At least one more, and I suspect a few others as well, but that will have to wait until my next visit.  I'll top off my Gothenburg entries with the restaurant where we enjoyed our last supper:  Basement Restaurant & Bar.

Our architect told us of this place, and we'll have to think of something very nice for him to repay the favor.  Arriving at 8:30, we stepped --expectedly-- down into this cellar-like restauarnt, immediately enveloped by heavenly smells that I now suspect was the pork brisket that is cooked for 16-hours.... Sorry, I'm getting ahead of myself.  Ambiance:  cozy and charming.  A labrinth of small rooms with low ceilings and white-washed walls, alcoves and nooks filled with books, magnums and wine crates. 

There are only two choices, both tasting menus.  We opted for the four-course holiday dinner with selected wine pairings.  The fact alone that our server could remember and recite the entire offering --in her second language-- was impressive in itself.  Each course was an exquisite composition of mulitple elements, the kind you don't question no matter how unfamiliar (rosemary jelly with egg foam?) because when enjoyed in completion, the flavor combinations are, simply, brilliant.  The pace was leisurely, as our four courses were spread out over three hours.  (Good thing we didn't opt for the 8-course dinner, we would have missed our flights the following morning.) 

The Michelin star is well deserved here, but more than that, Basement has managed to pull off the sublime: composing serious, top-notch cuisine as refined and evolved as the other cutting edge restaurants in town, yet maintaining a comfort-factor in service and decor that is completely disarming and relaxed. 

Gotabergsgatan 28, 411 34 Goteborg
http://www.restbasement.com/

Ever since I read about this restaurant in the NYT Magazine last September, I've been looking forward to experiencing Magnus & Magnus.  After all, Gothenburg has found herself in the enviable position of becoming the gastrohub of Scandinavia, center of the 21st century culinary revolution.  Magnus and Magnus shares the spotlight with no less than four Michelin-starred restaurants in the same city, two of which I had the great priviledge of experiencing during my last visit (Sjomagasinet and Fond: both, exquisite).  So it was with much anticipation I entered the small and charming santuary that has been so favorably received by the international press.

The casually elegant interior, I must say, is without parallel in this town: a cozy, square bar sits in the center of the room, with small tables encircling this nerve center of embibement.  A most intimate and charming single-table loft sitting directly above the entrance was noted immediately by everyone in our party as the private dining alcove of choice, not unlike your childhood tree or clubhouse.  There is a Moroccan theme about the place, save the Elvis-Sings-Christmas playing overhead.  Nonetheless, we tucked into our table for four and waited for the evening to unfold.

How do I explain what happened next:  the fact that our time at Magnus and Magnus was perhaps one of the most special and enjoyable dinners I have experienced abroad was not due to an easily identifiable element of the dinner.   The elegant and delightful server who took our joking in easy stride, the lovely Russian River Marimar Chardonnay she brought to our table after confessing she had recommended and served the last bottle of Chateau Nuf du Pap to the chaps in the coveted alcove, the mini salt-encrusted sourdough rolls that made me want to eat at least a dozen, the beef carpaccio with beets and broth, and the raindeer steaks enjoyed all around the table:  these are the elements that built our experinece, but truly I must confess that none of the above made me feel that Magnus and Magnus was tremendously special.  In fact, while perfectly delicious, the courses were, in all honesty, rather forgettable.  The invaluable element of our dinner was in the conversation that was collectively inspired by all of the above.  And therefore, tonight I go to bed pondering the fifth element, so to speak, that dining out has the potential to offer:  a heightened platform for friendship, for storytelling, for sharing.  And in this regard alone, Magnus and Magnus may have been one of the best restaurants I've ever experienced.

Magnus & Magnus
411 18 Goteborg

http://magnusmagnus.com

Greetings from Sweden, friends!  The coblestone streets and charming shops look quintessentially European this visit: every business is trussled in tasteful holiday decor, replete with white lights and green garlands around each window.  I've been in lovely Gothenburg for four days now, and feel thankful to find that the city's best cafe is conveniently located midway between the Hotel Avalon and the Figura design office: a brisk 15 minute walk that's all the sweeter while anticipating my next cafe cortado!

The lovely Cigarren sits on the Jarntorget square in the Linnestaden neighborhood next to the unfortunate Burger King, but you hardly notice the tacky neighbor once you lock eyes on Cigarren's crystal chandelier, gamingly hung outside under her front awning.  You'll pass several teak tables and chairs as you make your way to the door; wool blankets are thoughtfully placed on the backs of the chairs, waiting for the cafe's patrons who choose an outdoor seat despite the cold: prime square and fountain watching.  Inside the cafe are high bar tables and stools, a walk-in humidor for all your boss' tobacco needs, a pastry case of sweets, and most importantly, a barista who clearly takes much pride in how he prepares espresso beverages.  Caramel-ly and rich, strong but not bitter, and always a double shot topped with a rosetta of steamed milk swirled into the espresso elixir.  This could be Italy.  Paired with a chocolate-coconut bar that always screams my name from the pastry platter, I hardly notice my jet lag, nor the fact that I'm 4,720 miles from my home town, the land of supreme coffee snobbery!

Enjoy the tunes while you're there: it was 'September' by Earth, Wind and Fire on Thursday...

http://www.cigarren.nu/